STEP 4: Rebar Grid

With the plumbing done, I ordered some 6 yards of washed sand, since my foundation ring is above the ground instead of in and I had to fill in some sand into the middle part of the foundation, to elevate center floor to 6" - instead of filling the whole ring with concrete. Concrete at this time is about 4 x more $$ than the washed sand.

IMPORTANT: when you shuffle the sand into place under and over the plumbing pipes, water them down thoroughly so there is no air gaps underneath the plumbing to prevent them from breaking or cracking under the pressure of the concrete when it is poured on top. Use one of those spray nozzles that give enough water pressure to penetrate the sand and get the water under the pipes - you will see the sand sink deeper and you can place some more sand on top of that and spray that as well etc. Only the area of the pipes need to get wet.

6 yards of sand arrive to fill the center floor to 6"

Time to shuffle, shuffle and.... shuffle

The dump truck dumped the sand in 3 locations in the circle

After the sand was made into a 19' diameter surface of about 6", we placed some plastic or 'vapor barrier' on top - which prevents the moisture from the soil to get into the concrete and keeps the sand & concrete separated when it is poured into the ring.

We created a footer ring of 12" and the center kept at 6"

Adding a vapor barrier

providing for the plumbing holes

here you can better see the footer ring

 

 

the stakes keep the ring beams in place and up on 2 levels

Electrical rebar cutter saves a lot of time (less measuring)

Rebar bender for #4 and #5 rebar

1 bundle = 1 ton of rebar #4

rebar bender

grid pattern of 12" on center ( means 12" by 12" squares)

rebar grid is above the pipes and ring beam

adding radius beams

Total of 12 radius beams at all big numbers of the clock

This is how the radius beams tie into the ring beams

Most appreciated view

The overseer